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Sopa de guias

What: A traditional springtime soup made of baby squash, squash flowers, small arepa-like corn dumplings, whole corn kernels, vine shoots, and chepiche, an aromatic herb. Light, tasty, and filled with vegetables.

Where: We found sopa de guias on the menu at Casa de la Abuela (951-516-3544; Hidalgo 616, map) in the zócalo’s northwest corner. Though a bit touristy, the kitchen specializes in lots of regional specialties, and the big open windows in the breezy dining room provide a great perspective of the always-bustling zócalo. Try for a window table.

When: Daily, 1pm-10pm

Order: Sopa de guias (45p), followed by other local dishes like chilaquiles con tasajo, mole negro or coloradito, empanadas, memelitas—you get the picture.

Alternatively: You can usually find this dish at the elegant Casa Oaxaca (Constitución 104-4, map), and sometimes at the gorgeous (and pricey) Los Danzantes (Alcalá 403-4, map).