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Tetela

What: These triangular pockets of corn stuffed with various ingredients were among the best things we put in our mouths in Oaxaca.

Where: We only saw tetelas offered at one place: Itanoní (Belisario Domínguez 513, Colonia Reforma, map), a casual and breezy antojería (specializing in corn-based antojitos, or snacks) and tortillería (you can watch the tortilla-making process in the open-air area in the front of the restaurant), where masa is made fresh daily. Its menu comes with a philosophy: that native, heirloom corn, maiz criollo—domesticated by Mexicans some 9,000 years ago—is essential to Mexican culture, and its cultivation should be celebrated.  

When: Mon-Sat, 7am-4pm; Sun, 8am-2pm

Order: We loved the fresh-tasting tetela con hongo (21p)—every bite burst with mushrooms, queso fresco, and cream—but other fillings on offer include beans, chicharrón, and cheese with salsa, among others. Being corn-obsessed, this is also a great place to try memelitas and tostadas; on weekends the pozole here is fantastic. Wash it down with an agua fresca like the minty limón con hierbabuena.

Good to know: Itanoní is a short cab ride (or long walk) from downtown Oaxaca, and well worth the few pesos to get there.