Santander

In Barichara, we loved La Mansión de Virginia (Calle 8, No. 7-26; 7-726-7170; doubles from 75,000 COP): Rooms are comfortable, quiet, high-ceilinged, have TVs (which actually comes in handy in a sleepy town), and are overseen by the affable granddaughter of the original Virginia. More upscale is the modern, minimalist La Nube Posada (Calle 7, No. 7-39; doubles from 265,000 COP).

In San Gil, the Colombia Plaza Hotel (Calle 12, No. 10-34, 2nd floor; 724-4341; doubles from approximately 40,000 COP) is basic, but clean and well-located (and boasting good, hot showers in each room). The Aussie-owned Macondo Guesthouse (Carrera 8, No. 10-35, map; dorms 18,000 COP, doubles 45,000 COP) is popular among backpacking adventure-seekers.

In Bucaramanga, Kasa Guane Bucaramanga (Calle 49, No. 28-21, map; dorms 20,000 COP, private doubles, 80,000 COP) is a decent hostel in the pretty Sotomayor neighborhood, or try the upscale Hotel Ciudad Bonita (Calle 35, No. 22-01, map; doubles from 337,560 COP), closer to the center of town, where amenities include three on-site restaurants and a pool.